Getting to Song-Kol
Song-Kol sits in a high basin surrounded by passes over 3,000 m, and every road in is unpaved. The usual routes are the Kalmak-Ashuu pass from the Kochkor side (about 3,450 m, gravel), the Moldo-Ashuu pass from the south with its long run of hairpins, and a road over the Kyzart pass from the west.
There is no public transport to the lake. A car with good ground clearance and a driver who knows the passes is the safe choice, especially after rain, when the tracks along the shore turn muddy. From Bishkek it is a long day, so most trips break the drive with a night on the way, in Kochkor, on the south shore of Issyk-Kul or in Kyzyl-Oy.
When to go
The lake is high and the passes are only reliable from June to September. July and August are the warmest and busiest months. June and September are quieter, with colder nights and fewer camps at either end of the season.
Even in summer, nights at 3,000 m can drop close to freezing, and afternoon thunderstorms are common. Snow in July or August is rare but does happen. The camps come down in autumn when the shepherds take their herds to lower ground.
Yurt camps
Shepherd families run yurt camps along the shore for the summer. They are simple: beds with thick blankets in a yurt, a home-cooked dinner and breakfast, outdoor toilets and, at most camps, no shower. Expect little or no mobile signal.
Bring warm layers, a hat and a rain jacket even in July, and some cash: camps don't take cards.
What to do at Song-Kol
- Ride a horse along the shore or up to the hills. Camps arrange horses; try a short ride before a long one.
- Walk the pastures above camp and visit a shepherd family.
- Watch the birds: demoiselle cranes and bar-headed geese breed around the lake.
- Stay up for the night sky. There is almost no light here.
- Swim only if you are brave: the water is very cold, and a quick dip on a sunny afternoon is as much as most people manage.
Altitude
At 3,000 m some people get a headache or sleep badly the first night. A night lower down before the lake helps, which is one reason we reach Song-Kol from Issyk-Kul or Kochkor rather than straight from Bishkek.