Tash-Rabat: the stone caravanserai in the At-Bashy mountains

What Tash-Rabat is

Tash-Rabat means roughly "stone lodging". The building has 31 domed rooms, built of rubble stone and clay. Its age is debated: researchers date it anywhere from the 10th to the 15th century, and some argue it began as a monastery before it served caravans. Today it is best known as a Silk Road caravanserai.

Getting there

From Naryn the road runs south through At-Bashy on the main highway, then turns off onto a gravel track up the valley for the last stretch. Allow 2–3 hours from Naryn. At-Bashy is the last place to buy fuel and supplies.

From Bishkek it is too far for one day. Most trips arrive from Naryn or come over the passes from Song-Kol, which is a full day on the road.

When to go

June to September. Nights in the camps can come close to freezing even in July, and early June or late September can bring snow to the higher ground. We have stayed at Tash-Rabat at the end of September; by then the season is closing.

Where to stay

A few yurt camps in the valley open for the warm season and serve dinner and breakfast. They are basic: no showers and often no electricity. There are no shops, so bring warm clothes, snacks and cash.

The walk to Chatyr-Kul pass

From the caravanserai a trail climbs to the Chatyr-Kul pass at around 4,000 m. It is a long day, roughly 6–8 hours there and back, best done after a night at Tash-Rabat to acclimatise. Going down to Chatyr-Kul lake itself needs a border-zone permit.